Serenade in D major

You might have seen the Taj Mahal, the Great Wall of China or the Statue of Liberty. All these monuments bear a testimonial to man’s will power and perseverance. Alongside these I bring to you something very different, a piece for which the phrase “delayed gratification” might have been invented. Nothing and I mean nothing can prepare you to the spectacle called the living root bridges and in comparison the aforementioned man made edifices I should say delivered an instant pay-off.

About 3 hours from Guwahati lies the town which is considered the wettest place on earth - Cherrapunji. Rainfall is apparent every single day no matter what time of the season it is and you got to be me to breathe in that fresh air. It smells better than freshly baked bread. The living root bridges are located 15 kms away from the main Cherrapunji town. For a person who seldom underestimates anything I gave this drive amiss and tried to take a power nap. Earlier that day I had a chat with the curator of the Eco Park (Cherrapunji) who mentioned Living roots trek is only for the adventurous and in the words of Barney Stinson I just had to say – Challenge accepted. A diminutive sway of the cab awoke me (thank god for small mercies!) and my breath was taken away. Damn the creator and his ‘Monet’ish scenery that snakes around this 15kms drive not to mention the cool breeze.

We got off the cab and filled up our small water pack and I could feel my spine tingle – a feeling I have gotten used to since a while now. It just indicates something awesome (to be read frightening, adrenaline churning, mind boggling – depending on the situation). Thanks to the beautiful drive which turned my mood somber the only thing stuck to my mind now is western classical music. The trek just reminds me of Mozart’s Serenade in D major. Its crisp articulations, nifty dynamics reminded me of the way the breeze, drive, the route and the vistas intertwine to give an experience inexplicable. About to start the trek, I could picture a solid core of musicians drawn from the ranks of the St. Petersburg Chamber orchestra, ready to welcome me.

The trek is totally 3 kilometers (one way) which starts at the village Tyrna and I cannot be sure if the measurement is accurate since a decent part is covered with steps. This so called adventurous trek is in point of fact the only route to reach a few Khasi villages in the hills and is a part of a foot path construction project from Tyrna to Nongriat village. You might have crossed villages in a bus, car or even on foot but this is your chance to cross it using steps.

An imaginative conductor starts his sound check as soon as you start your descent, thanks to the crickets. As you trek down, their chirping increases and goes down as you move away from them. It feels like the ebb and flow emanating from the string quartet when the conductor is playing with them. The sound check seems primitive but with little glimpses of the extravaganza ahead. The area is entirely filled with bay trees and most times of the year you find bay leaves fallen off the trees, dried up and their sweet smell teasing your olfactory nerves. The trek gathers momentum as you realize there are more than a thousand steps to cover. As you try to increase your speed you are gently reminded these steps are made for a demographic that is significantly smaller in stature to a fully grown south Indian male. I can call this an inconsequential bungle in the opulently melodious flow of the Serenade. 
Walking on the dried bay leaves mixed with other leaves produces a crunch which sometimes is not noticed by the untrained ear. I could not resist bringing a simile with the base patterns in the orchestra that goes unnoticed. They might seem insignificant but without, the piece sounds rather bland.

 















You pass by cute little houses with people gently greeting you, sometimes offering you water. They do know why you are there and sometimes openly thank you for making the effort. Such simplicity! The Serenade takes its first peak when you reach the suspension bridge. Ineptly described by lonely planet guide as nerve wrecking, the bridge draws inspiration from the living roots bridge, a mere human’s replication in iron. I could here hear the clarinet seamlessly alive and electrifying my experience of crossing the bridge.

 


The Serenade now turns grave with an overdose of bass – courtesy the trek. After a solid 2 kilometers (800 steps) of descent your muscles get accustomed to it and it is quite hard to climb these steep steps now. 




The bass at its somber tones is not too inspiring to move on but the colorful butterflies that flutter around due to our sudden movements do help alleviate our pain. 

Another suspension bridge with water a deep turquoise is a sight that pleases your eyes 


A small board announces the arrival of the first living  roots bridge. The safety engineer in me, not entirely sure about the load bearing capacity of the bridge reluctantly climb on it and to my surprise I find it better than the suspension bridge. 







Acceleration into the final stage of the Serenade, it just has all the jubilant impetus one could ask for! A flight of stairs lead you to the double Decker bridge called Umshiang. 














 


























Nothing and I emphasize nothing can actually prepare you for the sight that is in offer. If audiences seeking a musical adventure seek refuge in Mozart, this adventure could be adeptly compared to the Serenade. Nearing its peak, the distinctive enunciation of the ensemble juxtaposes an experience in one’s mind so innate with ingratiating effect - you are just wowed down to monstrous proportions. It brings an angelic quality, a rhythmic handle if I may to this thrilling trek.

A little about the living roots bridges

 They are made from the roots of the Ficus Elastica tree which produces a series of secondary roots from the elevated parts of its trunk. Khasis are a long existing tribe in Meghalaya who mastered the art of growing these bridges over generations. The Double Decker I have visited is said to be over 500 years old. It goes unsaid for forthcoming generations of Khasis to take care and grow the bridge. It is like an unwritten will and the Khasis take this seriously.

The Khasis employ betel nut trunks sliced in half to create the root guidance. The bridges can take at least 10 years to be fully functional as they gain strength in time, but can support tremendous amounts of weight.